The John-Suwan viewpoint at sunrise

On the southern tip of Koh Tao, the John-Suwan viewpoint looks over Chalok Baan Kao on one side and Shark Bay on the other, two bays curving away from the rock. At sunrise the bays below catch the first light and the granite turns warm; the couple stands on the rock with the coast falling away on both sides. It is the classic place on the island for a proposal, provided you are up before everyone else.

The path is short but steep and rocky, with ropes in places, and the top is small — the first people up get the frame. Plan to be at the top before first light, not at it: closed shoes and a head torch for the way up, the outfit in a bag until you are there. There is an entry fee, and access hours are set locally, so check them before you go.

By mid-morning the light is hard and the heat builds, one more reason to come at dawn. Koh Tao follows the Gulf: best from about January to August, driest February to April, and wettest October to December, when rain makes the rock slippery and rough seas can cancel the boats to the island — leave a spare morning.