Silver Beach and Coral Cove at sunrise

Chaweng and Lamai, the long beaches of Samui's east coast, are the busiest on the island by mid-morning, with the ring road and its traffic a short walk behind the sand. Between them the coast breaks into small coves of granite boulders, and these are the better place for a sunrise session. Silver Beach is the best of them: a short curve of white sand framed by granite boulders, small enough to feel private early in the morning.

The coves face east, so the sun comes up out of the sea in front of you, and the boulders give the frame shape and, later, shade. Coral Cove, a little further north beside the main road, is rockier and has very little sand — better for a few frames on the boulders above clear water than for a long beach walk. The granite is smooth and slippery when wet: flat shoes for the climb, the dress or shirt changed into once you are in place.

Come at first light and the coves are almost empty; by mid-morning swimmers and snorkellers arrive and the sun is already harsh on white sand. The dry months, about February to April, are the most dependable, and from October to December the northeast monsoon brings the heaviest rain.